Understanding Leather

Why We Choose Full Grain Leather

When you invest in a handcrafted bag, wallet, or belt, the leather is one of the most important factors in how it looks, feels, and ages.

That’s why we choose full grain leather for every piece we make, sourced from reputable tanneries we trust.

But what does “full grain” actually mean? And why does it matter?

What Is Full Grain Leather?

Full grain leather is made from the outermost part of the hide and retains the hide’s natural grain surface. Unlike corrected leathers, the surface has not been mechanically sanded or buffed to remove natural grain and imperfections.

You can still see the character of the original hide — including its natural grain, pores, and subtle variations. These aren't flaws. They're part of what makes each piece of leather unique.

Full grain leather is also known for its strength and durability. Because the natural grain surface remains intact, it can develop a beautiful character through use rather than simply wearing away.

Full Grain vs Other Leather Types

Leather terminology can be confusing because terms such as “full grain”, “top grain” and “genuine leather” are not always used consistently across the industry.

In simple terms:

• Full grain retains the hide's natural grain surface, with no corrective sanding or buffing of the grain.

• Corrected or buffed leather has had some of the natural surface mechanically altered to create a more uniform appearance.

• Split leather comes from the lower layers of the hide after the grain layer has been separated. It can be finished and coated for different applications.

• Genuine leather simply means that a product is made from real leather. Despite the common perception, “genuine leather” isn't a specific quality grade and can refer to a range of leather types.

We choose full grain because we value the natural character, strength, and ageing qualities of the original hide.

The Beauty of Natural Patina

One of the things we love most about full grain leather is the way it changes with time.

With handling, light, and everyday use, many full grain leathers gradually develop a patina — a deepening of colour, subtle sheen, and character that reflects the life of the piece.

The way leather develops patina depends on more than grain structure alone. The tannage, dyes, oils, waxes, finish, and how the leather is used all play a part.

Traditional vegetable-tanned leather is particularly well known for developing a rich and distinctive patina, which is one of the reasons it has been prized for generations of fine leather goods.

Rather than trying to make every hide look perfectly uniform, we embrace the natural variations that make each piece its own.

Vegetable Tanned vs Chrome Tanned Leather

Another important distinction is how the leather is tanned.

Tanning is the process that transforms a raw animal hide into durable, usable leather. Different tanning methods give leather different characteristics, and neither method automatically determines whether leather is full grain or a different grade.

Vegetable Tanned Leather

Vegetable tanning uses tannins derived primarily from plant materials such as tree bark and other botanical sources.

It is a traditional tanning method that can take considerably longer than modern chrome tanning. Vegetable-tanned leather is often:

• Firmer and more structured
• Well suited to belts, wallets, bags, and other structured goods
• Rich in natural character
• Particularly responsive to handling, light, and use
• Capable of developing a distinctive patina over time
• Available in beautiful natural shades ranging from pale tan through to deeper browns

Vegetable tanning is also valued for its use of plant-derived tanning agents and its long history in traditional leathercraft.

However, no tanning method is automatically “environmentally friendly”. The environmental performance of leather depends on the tannery's water use, energy use, chemical management, wastewater treatment, waste management, and overall production practices.

That's why we look beyond the name of the tanning process when choosing our suppliers.

Chrome Tanned Leather

Chrome tanning uses chromium salts and is a much faster tanning process than traditional vegetable tanning.

Chrome-tanned leather is generally:

• Softer and more flexible
• Highly versatile
• Consistent in colour and finish

• More resistant to water and heat than many vegetable-tanned leathers

• Well suited to products where softness, flexibility, or specific performance characteristics are important

Chrome tanning is widely used around the world because it is efficient and can produce leather with a broad range of characteristics.

Responsible chrome tanning also involves careful management of chromium, wastewater, and other production processes. The chromium used in modern chrome tanning is primarily trivalent chromium (Cr III), and properly managed tanning operations have systems in place to control and treat their waste streams.

Full Grain and Tanning Are Two Different Things

It's worth making one distinction clear:

Full grain describes the condition of the hide's natural grain surface. Tanning describes how that hide has been preserved and transformed into leather.

You can have full grain vegetable-tanned leather.

You can also have full grain chrome-tanned leather.

For us, the choice depends on the characteristics we want for the finished product.

Where we use vegetable-tanned full grain leather, we particularly value its firmness, natural character, and ability to develop a beautiful patina with age.

Other applications may benefit from chrome-tanned full grain leather, particularly where softness, flexibility, or additional resistance to water is important.

There isn't one tanning method that is perfect for every product. What matters is selecting the right leather for the job — and knowing exactly what you're buying.

Why We Are Selective About Our Suppliers

Choosing good leather isn't simply a matter of looking for the words “full grain” on a specification sheet.

We also consider the tannery behind the leather.

We look for suppliers who can demonstrate responsible production practices, consistent quality, and transparency about their leather and tanning processes.

Where possible, this means looking for:

• Responsible sourcing of hides
• Effective environmental and wastewater controls
• Consistent quality control and traceability
• Clear information about tanning methods and leather characteristics • Tanneries that take their environmental responsibilities seriously

Leather is a natural material, and its quality begins long before it reaches our workshop.

By working with trusted suppliers rather than simply choosing the cheapest available leather, we can be more confident about the material going into every product we make.

Made to Be Used. Made to Age.

We don't believe a handcrafted leather product should look exactly the same as it did on the day you bought it in ten years time.

We want it to become yours.

The marks from use. The softening of the leather. The gradual change in colour. The subtle sheen that develops where your hands touch it most. That's the beauty of good leather. 

Every piece in our range is handcrafted from full grain leather sourced from tanneries we trust. We choose it for its natural character, durability, and ability to develop more character with time.

Because the best leather goods aren't made to be replaced.

They're made to be used, enjoyed, and passed on.