Understanding Leather
Why We Only Use Full Grain Leather
When you invest in a handcrafted bag, wallet, or belt, the leather itself is the single biggest factor in how it looks, feels, and ages. That’s why every piece we make starts with full grain leather sourced from reputable tanneries — never anything less. Here’s what that actually means, and why it matters to you.
What “Full Grain” Actually Means
Leather is graded by how much of the hide’s original surface remains intact:
- Full grain — the top layer of the hide, left completely unaltered. The natural grain, pores, and fibre structure are all still there. This is the strongest, most durable part of the hide, and it’s what we use for every product we make.
- Top grain — the surface has been sanded and buffed to remove imperfections, then often stamped with an artificial grain pattern. It looks more uniform but loses some strength and character in the process.
- Genuine leather / split leather — despite the reassuring name, this is actually a lower grade. It’s made from the layers left over after the top grain has been split away, then coated or embossed to look like real leather.
Full grain is the only grade that develops a natural patina over time — that rich, deepening colour and slight sheen that comes purely from handling, light, and age. Anything else either can’t develop a patina or already has the surface treated in a way that hides how it’s really wearing.
Veg Tanned vs Chrome Tanned: The Real Difference
“Tanning” is the process that turns a raw hide into usable leather. How it’s tanned changes almost everything about the final product.
Vegetable Tanned (Veg Tan)
- Tanned using natural tannins extracted from tree bark, leaves, and other plant matter.
- A slow process — often taking weeks rather than hours
- Produces a firm, dense leather that holds its shape well
- Ages beautifully, darkening and developing a deep patina with use and sun exposure
- Typically a warm, honey-to-tan natural colour before dyeing
- More environmentally friendly, as it avoids heavy metal chemicals
- Ideal for structured goods like belts, wallets, and bags meant to last decades
Chrome Tanned
- Tanned using chromium salts, a fast industrial process (often just a day)
- Produces a softer, more flexible leather with a more uniform colour
- Doesn’t develop the same rich patina — colour stays largely static over time
- More water-resistant out of the box, which suits certain product types
- Chromium tanning byproducts require careful treatment, as chromium can be environmentally hazardous if not managed properly
- Dominates mass-market leather goods because it’s cheaper and faster to produce
Why It Matters for You
Neither process makes a hide automatically “full grain” — you can find full grain leather tanned either way, just as you can find lower-grade leather tanned either way. But the two processes suit different purposes:
- Veg tan full grain is what you want for something built to age well, get better looking with use, and last a lifetime — the reason it’s a favourite for premium bags, wallets, and belts.
- Chrome tan full grain has its place too, particularly where flexibility or water resistance matters more than long-term patina.
Why We’re Selective About Suppliers
Grade and tanning method are only part of the story — how the tannery sources and treats its hides matters just as much. Reputable tanneries:
- Use hides as a byproduct of the food industry rather than raising animals for leather alone
- Follow proper environmental controls for tanning chemicals and wastewater
- Maintain consistent quality control, so the leather we receive is genuinely full grain, not mislabelled
- Are transparent about their tanning process and origin
Working only with suppliers who meet these standards costs more and takes longer than sourcing the cheapest available hide — but it’s the only way to guarantee that what we make will look better, wear better, and last longer than anything made from lower-grade or irresponsibly sourced leather.
Every piece in our range is handcrafted from full grain leather, sourced from tanneries we trust. It’s a small detail on a spec sheet, but it’s the reason your bag, wallet, or belt will still be going strong for many years to come.
